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Ciphysus
5.7,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
FA: unknown
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> Superstition Mo…
> Miners Needle
> Middle Needle
> Southeast
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
As I climbed this route I thought it felt like another hard 5.9 only to find out the rating is a 5.7. I have succumbed to the fact that in the Superstitions I have no idea how to climb, rate, judge anything over a 5.5.....
Bottom of the route is junky and loose, middle section is decent, top of formation junky and loose.
Location
Route can be located by obvious chimney that sort of narrows and has two chockstones midway.
Protection
I placed all ranges of cams up to #4 since I like to pretend I'm safe when climbing on exfoliating rock. Old anchors at the top that allow a quick rappel off the west side.