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Routes in Sunset Wall

Dragon, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dreaming Real T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trantor T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total · 5/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on May 11, 2015
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

There are two cruxes. The first down low up through the small seem. The second goes from off the upper ledge to topping out.

Climb continuously to the top or you'll probably tire out.

Indy's book (a must by the way) shows the route ending up through a small seem at the roof. That line seemed harder than 10a. I veered slightly left under the roof, stepping on the obvious small foothold to hurl myself to the top shelf.

Location

Start below the obvious protruding roof when leaving Faint's Roof area. Gear anchor. Walk directly back and look for the 4th class down climb.

Protection

Doubles in .75s and 1s are extremely helpful.

Webbing or anchor ropes to sling rocks at top for top rope.

Photos

Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
The horizontals through the roof provide ample opportunity to place protection... if you can fight the pump long enough to do so. The crux protects pretty well too lower on the route. Plenty of cracks on the ledge above the route to build a gear anchor with if you don't have long webbing. Jul 19, 2015
Glass Tupperware   Atlanta
Awesome jugs through the roof! Easy to protect with .75, 1, 2 through the overhang Apr 24, 2014