Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on May 11, 2015
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start by climbing a broken pillar to a high first bolt. Continue up a dihedral, clipping 2 more bolts, and mantle onto the ledge below the big roof. Clip your last bolt in the bottom of the roof, start traversing left on a juggy slot and snag jugs left of the bolt. Pull the roof and mantle to the chains (crux).

Location

Between Neon Leprechaun(10a) and Sperm Whale(11b). See beta pic

Protection

4 bolts to chains

Photos

S.Lee  
^ Agreed, would not recommend this route. Oct 22, 2015
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
I got up under the roof. I don't think it would be too hard to pull yourself over the roof but as I shoved my hand into the key undercling I poked a bat. I didn't feel like getting rabies and couldn't pull the move without that hold, so I bailed off. Still tons of bird shit as of August 2016... Also, it seems as though it's pretty awkward to clip the chains once you pull over the roof. They are immediately after the roof and there's no ledge or anything to stand on. If you're feet are at the edge of the roof, the chains are probably around your knees. Aug 21, 2016