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Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 16
votes
Routes in Mud Pile
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[Redacted] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Blacklisted S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Carla The Stripper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb Like a Bomb S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Edge of the World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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If You’re Gonna be Dumb You Better be Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jacobs-Strain Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kid Packed Minivan From Hell S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lusty Lady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marsupial Madness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marsupials Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mini Half Dome S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mouthbreather S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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My Name is Mud S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rampage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Truth Assassin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tuff Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tuff Shit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Undying Spite S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Xenophobe S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,200 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Keever on May 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
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