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Routes in (4) Mud Pile

Blacklisted S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carla The Stripper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge of the World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacobs-Strain Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kid Packed Minivan From Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Hookers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
Lusty Lady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marsupial Madness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marsupials Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Half Dome S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Name is Mud S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rampage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Truth Assassin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuff Shit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xenophobe S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999
Page Views: 179 total, 6/month
Shared By: Erik Keever on May 11, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.

The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.

Location

Either walk south across the scree from Koala, or hike uphill from the boulder field along the Mudpile's north face. Begin on the slab downhill of the unmistakable shoulder-width chimney and left of a blank overhang

Protection

9 bolts plus fixed anchor

Photos

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haha what an oddly named obscure route for the 700th route in the database! May 20, 2015