Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999 |
Page Views: | 1,200 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Erik Keever on May 11, 2015 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
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