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Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole [Suggest Change]
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in (4) Mud Pile
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Blacklisted S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carla The Stripper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edge of the World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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If You’re Gonna be Dumb You Better be Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jacobs-Strain Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kid Packed Minivan From Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Loose Hookers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Lusty Lady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marsupial Madness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marsupials Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Mini Half Dome S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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My Name is Mud S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rampage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Truth Assassin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tuff Love S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tuff Shit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xenophobe S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft |
| FA: | TR Ryan Lawson 9/1997, FFA Thomas Emde 1999 |
| Page Views: | 241 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Keever on May 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Suggest Change]
This route ultimately moves across or up 5 distinctly different (if small) faces, with a crack, two aretes and a mini roof between them. Start following the bolt line; Once you clip the upper bolt on the second face, traverse right until you are past both aretes, then go up to meet the bulge. Crank on jugs, then enjoy the finish on low-angle jugs.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
The Watts guide gives it a .10c; I would guess these are the moves going up the first vertical face. Calls more for technique and balance than strength. He also calls it a "minefield of petrifying knobs" but it appears to have cleaned up nicely: I blew none on lead, but also heeded the warning and moved gingerly.
Location [Suggest Change]
Either walk south across the scree from Koala, or hike uphill from the boulder field along the Mudpile's north face. Begin on the slab downhill of the unmistakable shoulder-width chimney and left of a blank overhang
Photos
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Redmond, OR