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Routes in Lower East Wall

Anonymous, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pokey Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pseudonym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockabilly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Trouble Finds Me T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Waugh, Hatcher
Page Views: 148 total, 5/month
Shared By: sean peters on May 10, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

A neat route with some fine rock and poor protection. The first crux can be found on pitch one near the top. Climb cracks through mini roof to a somewhat distinct "point". You exit left at this point up a steep, 12 foot face with good pockets. If you were to continue off the "point" the crack deteriorates. Belay at nice ledge.
Pitch 2 begins by climbing up an unprotected 12 foot face to another nice ledge. Either have your belayer spot you or do not fall--would not be good! Traverse right and up using small, shallow cracks for gear (a fall here might be bad as well). You will notice a lone bolt off right and below as you traverse. Bolt is for another route. Continue up/over bulge to summit.
  • *The rating feels fair but the boulder problem after P1 and marginal gear on P2 might get some folks into a bit of trouble**

Location

Bushwhack from trail just past Twilight Pinnacle (20 minutes from trail to base) or continue on main trail (Dutchman's Trail) to saddle and wander back along the entire formation to the start. The start is just above a lone juniper tree, the cracks will be obvious.
From the summit walk back to your packs, about 20-30 minutes.

Protection

Cams to #4 (singles), nuts, tri-cams.

Photos

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