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Routes in Blueberry Hill & Proxima Wall

Ancient Melodies T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blueberry Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Rhythm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jacobs Ladder, 5.10b A-1 or 5.11b T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Westward Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Whitelaw, Chris Greyell, Mark Hanna 2001
Page Views: 1,193 total, 38/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on May 10, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Westward Ho makes great use of some the cleanest white granite at Darrington. It provides a direct line of sustained friction and crimps that will test any climber aspiring to be solid on 5.9 slab. The first four premium quality pitches are bolt-protected with modern hardware and fixed anchors. But this aint no sport route, pilgrim! Come prepared for insecure moves a ways above bolts with cheese-grater consequences.

The route is direct and obvious, with pitch ratings of 5.9+, 5.8, 5.9 and 5.9. From the top of P4 most rappel, but you can continue to the summit via four additional pitches of adventure climbing (slab, bushes, dirty corners) protected by gear. A more detailed description and topo are available in Weekend Rock-Washington, by David Whitelaw, who helped establish the route.

Descent reverses the route via double-rope rappels. I doubt a 70 would reach, but post up if you know otherwise.

Location

Westward Ho is located immediately south/right of the Blueberry Buttress (see photo), so requires the same character-building Granite Sidewalk approach. From the base of the buttress, step right into the drainage. Scramble up a blocky corner to a small perch with a bolt for the initial belay.

Protection

Bolts (3/8”) typically spaced 20-40'’ apart (max of 8 per pitch). Small cams are needed for overlaps on pitch 4. A medium rack of cams and nuts is needed to continue beyond.

Strongly recommend helmets, because the route is exposed to minor rockfall – it is a drainage after all! If there is a party above on Blueberry Buttress, any dislodged rocks will be headed your way.

Photos

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