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Routes in Eldorado Peak

Dorado Needle East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dorado Needle NW Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Ridge Easy Snow
NW Ice Couloir AI2
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade III
FA: Dan Cauthorne and Bill Pilling
Page Views: 708 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on May 7, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Head straight up the couloir, starting at about 7,800 feet and finishing at about 8,800 feet. Depending on conditions, it may be a pure snow/neve climb, it may have some ice, or it may have some mixed climbing.

The route finishes just below the knife-edge ridge, which is gained and followed to the summit.

Descend the standard East Ridge.

Location

From the classic East Ridge, hold at about 8,100 feet on a traverse to the North side of the mountain to an obvious notch between the North Ridge and the first rock spire. Find a rappel station and continue down to the West-facing cirque. Head South to the route.

Protection

Ice screws, pickets, and a small rock rack, depending on conditions

Photos

michal
Everett WA
 
michal   Everett WA
 
Very conditional when we did it there were a couple mixed sections as well as vertical powder digging. Horrible spindrift! Really happy to have compass in summit white out. Nov 17, 2016