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Routes in Riverside Wall

Art of War, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crime Of The Century S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dog Soldier, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Done Deal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Stitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marty's Coffin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Punch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phoenix S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slappin The Fridge S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Small Cams and Big Nuts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Snyder, 2015
Page Views: 55 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 7, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Begin up the clean grey shield using a big side pull rail. Climb past a big coffin shaped feature to some larger holds and eventually an undercling. The crux is passing this blank section. Great holds and fun moves await leading up to the steep ending. Great side pulls and some lie back moves deposit you at the chains.

This route was started circa 1993? by a seasonal river guide named Marty Holtmeyer, but never finished. He bolted, on aid, up four bolts and stopped at the blank section. He left a screw link and a copperhead mashee and bailed, never to return. As this wall began to fill with new routes over the past couple seasons, I decided to have a look at the ending to offer a finish to what had been started long ago. As is almost always the case there was an obvious line of holds and great climbing to be found. The addition of 6 new bolts and some beefy chains and we now have a good warm up for the rougher climbs surrounding it. Come check it out!

Location

Right of Phoenix and left of Slappin' the Fridge

Protection

10 bolts and chain anchors

Photos

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Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
 
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
 
Dude! I shoulda known to ask you. Thanks a bunch! May 9, 2015
Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
Hey Mike , It was Marty Holtmeyer, not sure what happened to him. Good guy! you guys sure are busy down there, thanks for all the routes! May 8, 2015