Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (5) Fir Tree Ledge

Center Squeeze T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkhorse, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Play TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Line , The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tunnel Vision T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bryan Smith and Topher Dabrowski, 5/4/15.
Page Views: 88 total, 3/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on May 5, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start just left of the Darkhorse and crank up a steep face past 3 bolts to a good stance at a thin seam. Climb either through the seam (short 5-10c crux) or right of the seam (heady 5-9 variation) after placing very small gear in the seam (smaller than a zero metolius). Place good gear in the arcing crack above the seam and follow the crack to a good stance below a smooth bulge. Clip the bolt out left on the bulge, power directly over this last bolt in an exciting sequence of good face holds, then follow and place good gear in the thin crack leading up and right to finish at The Darkhorse anchor.

Location

Just left of Darkhorse

Protection

Gear to 1", and bolts.

Photos

bryans
  5.10c PG13
bryans  
  5.10c PG13
Today I realized if you step left of the thin crack crux, you can use a couple cool in-cut holds to see and place gear in at least two good constrictions in the crack. On the first ascent I stayed right and had a hard time seeing and placing those nuts. The moves won't be any easier, but at least you can see the crack and place gear to your satisfaction from a good stance. So, no bolt is going there.

PS - This route is easily toproped from the darkhorse's anchor. Lower a few feet and place a thin nut or cam in the cracks out left as a directional, then lower down to the top bolt on the thin line for another directional. Have fun! Sep 17, 2016
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.10b
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.10b
No bolt. Good nut or ballnut placement Jun 22, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10c
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10c
Not sure the bolt is needed as the thin seam will take the following gear to protect the crux moves:

Passive Nut, #2 DMM
Ball Nut #2
Wild Country Zero #3


I recommend the following gear for the route:
Small to medium nuts
Ball Nuts #2 (optional but useful)
1x MasterCam 00 or Zero #3 (instead of Ball Nut)
2x MasterCam 1 or Zero #5
1x MasterCam 2 or Camalot 0.3
1x MasterCam 6 or Camalot 1 Jun 19, 2015