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Routes in West Rattlesnake Slabs

Death Wish in Paradise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Stroll in Paradise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Recorded: Eli Buzzell and Shawn Bunnell
Page Views: 318 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eli on May 4, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Seasonal Closure - Spring Details

Description

From the tree, head up the left-leaning flaring crack until it runs out. Continue up the slabs to large pine tree that you can sling and belay from. Scramble to the top.
Super fun and exciting climbing on this route! Lichen isn't a problem, and the rock is mostly solid. After the initial steep slab, the grade mellows out pretty well and turns into about 5.6(+/-) friction climbing. The gear is not good after the crack, and placements are scarce. Be sure to bring your lead head, this route is a rewarding climb with a stunning view at the belay.

Location

This route is pretty much in the center of the cliff, and starts under the left leaning crack where two large trees are sitting very close to the cliff.

Protection

Tri-cams are super useful. In the crack I placed a red tri-cam for the low section, and then a BD .75 C4 in the upper part. Best to shove as much gear as you can into the crack, because you're not going to get much else for the rest of the pitch. TCU's may be helpful and as always, never forget your small nuts.

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