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Death Wish in Paradise
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in West Rattlesnake Slabs
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Death Wish in Paradise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Stroll in Paradise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 470 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Eli Buzzell on May 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - Spring
Details
The trail is often closed in the Spring until mid-may to keep the hordes of tourists off the beautifully manicured trail until it settles again.
Description
From the tree, head up the left-leaning flaring crack until it runs out. Continue up the slabs to large pine tree that you can sling and belay from. Scramble to the top.
Super fun and exciting climbing on this route! Lichen isn't a problem, and the rock is mostly solid. After the initial steep slab, the grade mellows out pretty well and turns into about 5.6(+/-) friction climbing. The gear is not good after the crack, and placements are scarce. Be sure to bring your lead head, this route is a rewarding climb with a stunning view at the belay.
Super fun and exciting climbing on this route! Lichen isn't a problem, and the rock is mostly solid. After the initial steep slab, the grade mellows out pretty well and turns into about 5.6(+/-) friction climbing. The gear is not good after the crack, and placements are scarce. Be sure to bring your lead head, this route is a rewarding climb with a stunning view at the belay.
Location
This route is pretty much in the center of the cliff, and starts under the left leaning crack where two large trees are sitting very close to the cliff.
Protection
Tri-cams are super useful. In the crack I placed a red tri-cam for the low section, and then a BD .75 C4 in the upper part. Best to shove as much gear as you can into the crack, because you're not going to get much else for the rest of the pitch. TCU's may be helpful and as always, never forget your small nuts.
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