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Routes in Lightning Bolt

Herb and Jan's Lighting Bolt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Jackknife Matinee S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rock of Ages S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Eddie Begoon
Page Views: 52 total, 2/month
Shared By: BBQ on May 2, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A very good climb that most of you have probably been walking past for years after getting your Static Cling on. Me and my homies thought it was a three star experience, but those who are allergic to lichen on their side pulls might give it two stars max. It could clean up with more traffic though...SO GO AND GET ON IT ALREADY!

This route has an overhung schisty sidepull start that leads to multiple cruxes with small but decent holds. Think crimps and small crystals that happen to be sharp and uniquely positive. The route has decent clips stances (if you can find) them and committing moves past every bolt.

This is a route that might leave some brown streaks in your shorts but once you have the betta you're golden. Get on it and get crimping your fingers and crapping your pants! Actually, its not that bad. Those who have mastered Blue Mascara should give it the old college try.

Location

Obvious bolt line in a black open book left of Static Cling.

Protection

6 bolts and chain anchors. If you don't like the idea of taking the ride a top rope can easily be place on this route after climbing up the Conn route on the other side of Lightning Bolt Rock.

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