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Routes in Merlin Crack Area

Archie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Merlin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nimue T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wizards Apprentice , The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Anthony Johnson
Page Views: 328 total · 9/month
Shared By: Agjohns on May 2, 2015

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Access is always an issue here. Details


Left of Merlin this thin corner is not for the faint of heart. The gear throughout is somewhat marginal and an awkward start means an early fall would likely lead to both climber and belayer tumbling down the steep approach. The climbing is exciting, varied and a little spicy given the gear.


Left of Merlin


Take an assortment of small gear and big cams for an anchor up top.



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