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Routes in Merlin Crack Area

Archie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Merlin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nimue T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Wizards Apprentice, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Anthony Johnson
Page Views: 346 total · 9/month
Shared By: Agjohns on May 2, 2015
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Left of Merlin this thin corner is not for the faint of heart. The gear throughout is somewhat marginal and an awkward start means an early fall would likely lead to both climber and belayer tumbling down the steep approach. The climbing is exciting, varied and a little spicy given the gear.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of Merlin

Protection [Suggest Change]

Take an assortment of small gear and big cams for an anchor up top.

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