PRINT: Rock Climb The Caning, Smith Rock

The Caning

5.12b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 16 votes
FA: John Rich 1997
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Core power! Get psyched to squeeze some basalt. A step up from catalyst with a powerful crux around the 5th bolt. Edges, crimps, pinches and heel hooks will get you to a rest around mid-pitch with a slight challenge above at the chains.

Location

left of Cornercopia

Protection

9 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.12b

Expect a tough clip at the 5th bolt! May 4, 2015

Matt Farrell
SLC

5.12b

True. I used a pre-hung shoulder-length sling to make that clip a bit easier. Still hard though!

If you like this style of climb, and something harder than this interests you, go get on Hippo Wrestling on the other side of the river. Similar style of powerful compression, but a lot more of it! May 19, 2015