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Routes in Kansas Corner Wall

Elk City Sidepull T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lightning Bolt Flakes T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Meadowlark Perch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Zach Wahrer
Page Views: 358 total · 11/month
Shared By: Zach Wahrer on May 2, 2015
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Description

Start just right of the easy corner, using small edges to move up to some horizontals. After placing some gear, move up past the huge creaky flake. I yarded on this flake quite a bit before leading the route and it didn't fall off. However, it flexes quite a bit and is huge, so I didn't pull on it while climbing. It is easy to avoid, so you might just want to do that. The upper part of the route is fairly juggy, but it is quite a ways down to your last piece, so keep it together. There is a flake you can place a questionable C4 #.75 behind, as well as a pass-thru that can be threaded.

Location

Just right of the prominent wide corner.

Protection

I gave this route a PG-13 due to the flexy flake and for decking potential due to the questionable gear higher up on the route. This is not a lead for beginners. I placed a #4, #1, and #.75 C4. There may be more opportunities for gear, but I felt safe with those pieces. No anchors at the top at this time, but with a good amount of webbing (20'+) you can set up a solid tree TR anchor.

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