Angels on horseback/ That one time
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A0
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | early 80's |
Page Views: | 1,833 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Dj telle on Apr 29, 2015 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Clean rock and awesome backcountry setting. From the info ive gathered the route is rated at .9 in the backcountry book but the description and the last 2/3 pitches don’t make sense with how hard the climbing is. Either an A0 move or two or its most likely in the .12 range. It also does not mention the offwidth at the top
The route starts at middle of the wall at a low angle wide crack.
1. Go up around 100 ft of very enjoyable flakes and cracks and belay at tree (5.8)
2.Move belay 20 ft to a nice ledge. Climb the awesome left facing corner with small gear and good slab edging for about 80 ft and belay at The right side of a ledge with bushes (.10)
3.Step left on the manzanita tree and pull onto the ledge above it and find the bolt. Pull bulge to a bolt A0 or .12? ( both of us pulled on pin) then follow the layback crack with more pins until you reach a big slot under a big roof. belay here. (.11?)
4. Hard moves from the hanging belay and onto the steep offwidth chimney. Climb little wide roof and continue to the top to a tree (.10+)
5. Continue around ridge and climb a 5.6 crack to reach the true summit. Look for some old pine trees and descend down large gully.
2 tree rappels (full length)
You could algo get away with one rope just bring lots of Tat
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