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Routes in EDCL Boulder

Arete, The V0 4
Corner, The V0+ 4+
Crystal Face V0+ 4+
EDCL V2 5+
Flakes, The V0 4
Garnet Snatcher V3 6A
High Voltage V1 5
In The Fastlane V0+ 4+
Sherman's March V5 6C
Standard V0- 4-
Tronic V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: FRA Elias Buzzell - probably been done before
Page Views: 103 total · 3/month
Shared By: Eli on Apr 29, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb (while it may be a little contrived, you be the judge) is wonderful, airy, and pretty gymnastic. I couldn't have asked for a better line.

Start low beneath the arete on a good jug out left, and a nice undercling for the right - the feet are obvious and nice. From there make moves up some big holds - staying left of the arete the whole time. The holds get worse as you slap your way up the arete until you reach a glorious jug that will help you mantle out right to finish the business of the problem. Head up to the top by way of Standard (V0) and rejoice that you didn't have to hit the ground this time.

A lot of lichen died in the battle to reclaim this problem, which leads me to believe it hasn't seen an ascent in awhile. I backed my car up to it and stood on the roof to scrub the upper holds. Some day a truly strong and fearless climber can take this thing to the top without mantling out at the jug, I am not that climber.

Location

On the EDCL boulder, it is the prominent arete you drive by and oogle every time you leave the crag.

Protection

Pads

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
As part of a training regimen Ward Smith had us on for a while we used to do 30min workouts, climbing 30 minutes straight, no rests, with the idea to use perfect technique and not get pumped. This boulder worked great for this. You can cruise up and down and around it. It was always a little engaging when up high, but you could really get in that 'flow mode' on it. Apr 29, 2015
Eli
GMC3500
 
Eli   GMC3500
 
That is awesome, I appreciate the history! I hope it's okay that this is posted up in it's current state - but if you want to change anything about it I definitely understand, Y'all most likely climbed Rumney out when I learning to walk. Apr 30, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is great to have some names and defined lines. Apr 30, 2015

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