Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 190 total · 4/month
Shared By: Lurker on Apr 27, 2015
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Slab to bulge to vertical. Crux is pulling over the bulge on small crimps.

Location

To the right of and shares anchors with Poop Deck.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors.

Photos

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Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Another great name for a route here! Apr 28, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12
Super cool route. Thanks to those who bolted it. Pulling the crux is very committing, as it is easy to land on the slab below if you biff it. I rigged a super short baby draw with a sling and had an attentive belayer ready to drop to the ground. With that, the crux is safe. The remainder of the route is really cool balance and another scary ledge fall potential while finishing to the anchors. Jul 25, 2015
Lurker
Truckee, CA
  5.12b
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
  5.12b
Hey Evan, nice work. Had kind of forgotten about bolting this one. Added you as the FA. Jul 26, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12
That was a neat surprise to hear, I had no idea it was unclimbed till everyone told me when I got down! I hope I didn't accidentally cut in line. Thanks to all you guys for bolting and re-bolting all that stuff there. It has really reinvigorated the area there. Jul 30, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12
I added a bolt just above the roof with permission from the bolter. The bolt is close, but clipping it will keep you from smashing your ankle on the slab if you blow the crux. To my understanding, a bunch of holds broke off after the route was bolted, which resulted in the sketchy bulge. The route is plenty safe now, so definitely get on it! Jul 11, 2016
Sweet route! Not sure how one would comfortably clip the added bolt just over the bulge with the beta I used. Staying more direct with a right crimp and high left heel as opposed to following the chalk up and right I pulled past it. Slightly committing but felt solid after sticking the left crimp and matching feet on the ledge. Thank you to the bolter(s), super fun send! Sep 13, 2017
David Liao
5.12b
David Liao  
5.12b
Nice short route that helped me get my bouldering fix between burns on my main project. The crux bulge feels V5, so it feels 12b. I extended the draw just above the bulge to allow for clipping prior to committing to the crux. Nov 5, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.12
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12
I wonder if the clipping hold I used for the bolt above the bulge has broken off. It is likely, I remember a comfortable clip before pulling the bulge. The route had several holds break when the route was new, as well as one time I climbed it. I'm curious what it's like now. Nov 8, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
One move wonder, bear down on a shitty crimp and highstep. Aug 11, 2018