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Coprophagia
5.10,
Trad, 160 ft (48 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 8
votes
FA: FFA John Stannard, Henry Barber 1973 (Variation 1 - Jordan Mills 1996)
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> k. The Slime Wall
Description
An overlooked route that's worth doing, even though it's become neglected and dirty. Interesting mantles and a bit of nice finger-crack.
Start between
The Stand and
Wasp where a small right-leaning corner meets a small overhang. Climb straight up to good holds level with the overhang, see if you like the looks of the pins to your right, then move diagonally left to a good stance below another small overhang with a white splotch under it. Traverse right, meet the thin crack and climb it to easier terrain, continue up the second half of Wasp to the trees.
Variation 1 - Presumably goes straight into the thin crack where it begins, from the small overhang (5.12)
Protection
Standard Gunks Rack
Tree anchor, same as
Wasp. With a single 60m the tree to the right will leave you on the large mound to the right of Wasp, to walk off.
[Hide Photo] The somewhat contrived start to Coprophagia. Guidebook describes a 5.12 variation that goes directly up into the crack