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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 04.22.2015 Topher Dabrowski & Bekah Baker
Page Views: 566 total · 14/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 23, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start by climbing to the first bolt of Kung Fu, then trend right to a ledge and right facing corner (a small nut protects well here). Continue up the tricky corner and pass a little shallow roof by stepping left. Clip the pin and climb the crack on good edges to the anchors shared with Kung Fu.

Some clip the second bolt on Kung Fu with a longer runner.

Location

This route is the crack located between Kung Fu and Whine & Cheese

Protection

Gear to 3"

Recommended:
Cams (BD) 0.3 - 3.0
1 Set of Nuts including a #4BD or #1DMM

Bring a few long runners

Top anchors

Photos

Kev
Kev  
Totally fun new route. I thought it was more 5.8 if not 5.7. I will do it again. Jul 13, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
 
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
 
Feel free to add your grade rating, this is a consensus driven process. Jul 20, 2015
Dirty route with bushes in the crack as of 5/21/2018. I would strongly suggest using the 2nd bolt for kung fu vs (or in addition to) the nut placement pictured. May 23, 2018
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
Very very very dirty above 1st bolt. Climb up kung fu to 2nd bolt then cut over or downclimb back into route or you are facing a potential ground fall. May 23, 2018

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