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Routes in The Watchtower

Sinological T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ryder Stroud and Dan Jerke
Page Views: 139 total · 4/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 22, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A great adventure climb that is off the beaten path in Liming. With a manageable, definite crux, Sinological is very affordable for the grade. If you can find your way to the Watchtower, this route will offer something for everyone, from all kinds of jams, OW, and even some face climbing! It also has one of the best top-out views in Liming. If you are looking for a fun multipitch in an exotic setting, go find this route!

P1: Start on a small terrace above a gnarled tree with multiple small trunks. Begin up a corner hand crack until the crack suddenly wides into an OW. Some key face holds will save you from full-on groveling. Reach a big rest ledge underneath where the corner steepens. Continue up the corner until a #6-sized pod appears, which quickly shuts into a finger tips crack. Power through a handful of steep moves to reach some steep hand jams. Follow the steep jams up and over a bulge (past the site of a fallen tree that will clean up with more traffic) to a bolted belay in a wide corner and a narrow platform belay stance. (5.10, 25m)

P2: Step right from the belay into a flared crack with finger jams in back. The crack will again widen into an OW for a short bit before depositing you on slightly lower-angle terrain. place some good gear and take a deep breath. Climb out the corner and onto a wildly exposed triangular face. Finagle some thin gear (not obvious) before firing the exposed moves out the triangular face onto one of the most scenic terraces in all of Liming. Belay bolts will be on the face directly across from the pitch's top-out. (5.9+, 15m)

P3: From the terrace, start at the splitter crack the slices down the buttress of the Watchtower. Bouldery, thin, finger-sized jams right off the deck will yield a few flaring jams and then a nice secure section of hand-sized crack before widening to 4, 5, and 6 territory. Reach a big pod and a great rest, and continue OW-ing your way passed various bulges and good stances, butterfly stacking your way onto a few sloping ledges as the crack finally gives way to lower-angle terrain. Belay on bolts where the crack forms a gully and take in the commanding panorama of Liming valley! (5.11, 25m)

Descent:

- Rap from the bolts at the top of the crack of P3. A 60m rope will get you back to the terrace at the base of the pitch. Walk back to the anchors of P2 (climber's left). A 60m rope will get you to the anchor of P1, after which you can easily rap to the cliff base.

Location

Uphill directly behind Liming town (in the direction of the front gate). The Watchtower is the lone buttress to the right of One Dragon Buttress. Follow the buttress from its highest point to the ground. P1 will be at the bottom.

Protection

Gear: Single 0-1 TCUs, Double .2 X4 (or equivalent), doubles .3-2, single or double 3, double 4, single or double 5, optional 6

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