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Routes in Lost Creek Canyon

Bighorn Buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Crack of Infernity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Croakstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fevered T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Dustin Hoover, Chelsea Liddell. April 19, 2015
Page Views: 122 total · 3/month
Shared By: Rudeboy on Apr 21, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

It is unclear whether this entire route was climbed or descended previously. There is an old section of blue rope tied around a suspect but ok flake about 10' above P1 belay. I found no signs of climber activity above that rope. My guess is that P1 was climbed and bailed from years past.

P1: Scramble up cracks and slabs to some low angle terrain. A few more moves gain a nice sized ledge with a great 1" and 2" crack belay. 5.5 80'

P2: Move left of the belay to the right facing corner and make your way up. The climbing is somewhat sustained through the crack, well protected and enjoyable for a short time. There is quite a bit of loose rock up towards the top. I clipped a sling around one sturdy chockstone for pro and you have no choice but to climb right over some less compelling versions. 5.8 100'

To descend we gained the next major ledges above the route. On the north east side of this ledge I slung webbing around a large chunk of rock. One single rope rappel gets you back to the top of P1, 90' Rope stretch keeps you from popping off the ends. We then left a carabiner and rapped off the old blue tat rope on the detatched flake above P1 belay back to base.

Location

Up past the main waterfall a few hundred yards into the mouth of Lost Creek Canyon. When entering the main/upper canyon you will have to do some 4th/5th class moves around several short waterfalls. Croakstone is located on the north facing wall directly in line with the THIRD waterfall. It could be started at the bottom or top of said waterfall, respectively adding/subtracting 30'.

Protection

Single rack to 3".

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