Avg: -1 from 0 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FRA: Dustin Hoover, Chelsea Liddell. April 19, 2015|
|Page Views:||118 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Rudeboy on Apr 21, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionIt is unclear whether this entire route was climbed or descended previously. There is an old section of blue rope tied around a suspect but ok flake about 10' above P1 belay. I found no signs of climber activity above that rope. My guess is that P1 was climbed and bailed from years past.
P1: Scramble up cracks and slabs to some low angle terrain. A few more moves gain a nice sized ledge with a great 1" and 2" crack belay. 5.5 80'
P2: Move left of the belay to the right facing corner and make your way up. The climbing is somewhat sustained through the crack, well protected and enjoyable for a short time. There is quite a bit of loose rock up towards the top. I clipped a sling around one sturdy chockstone for pro and you have no choice but to climb right over some less compelling versions. 5.8 100'
To descend we gained the next major ledges above the route. On the north east side of this ledge I slung webbing around a large chunk of rock. One single rope rappel gets you back to the top of P1, 90' Rope stretch keeps you from popping off the ends. We then left a carabiner and rapped off the old blue tat rope on the detatched flake above P1 belay back to base.