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Afternoon Delight
5.7,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 27
votes
FA: 5-2007 Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Washington
> South-W & Tacoma
> Columbia Gorge
> Ozone
> (4) Gold Wall
Access Issue: Extremely Sensitive Access - Please Read
Details
The majority of Ozone is likely owned by Washington Department of Transportation. Climbing is not officially condoned or acknowledged, though they are aware that it's happening. Every climber here must adhere to the following guidelines if we want to maintain long-term access:
1.) DON'T GET HURT! Rescues are the biggest liability and headache. Make conservative climbing choices and be crystal-clear about commands to your partner.
2.) Park legally! Your vehicle must be within the white line and perpendicular to the road. No parking parallel to the road; this is to save space as well as make it easier when leaving. No parking along the guard rail or anywhere except the two pullouts.
3.) Pack everything out! Wrappers, poop, banana peels, all of it. If your thing falls down the slope, retrieve it.
4.) Dogs must be on good behavior. Better yet, leave them at home. If they're digging or chasing wildlife or barking, put them back in the car.
5.) Leave your music player at home and enjoy your intoxicants somewhere else.
It is absolutely ESSENTIAL that climbers keep themselves off the radar here or we risk access to one of the region's most popular crags.
Description
For the 5.7 version, start on Kung Fu and clip its first bolt. Then move left into the vertical crack and corner system. At the small roof, move left to the Screaming For Change anchors.
For the direction "5.10" finish, which now (4/2018) has a bolted anchor, step left to avoid the loose blocks and pull around the left side of the roof to a stance. Shimmy atop the roof and then work your way up into the overhang. Pull through this with some fierce stemming, hand jamming, and crimp pulling. Apparently there is a "reach around happy finish" but this beta remains elusive. The "5.10" grade may be a bit of a sandbag... unusual at this crag.
Location
Just right of Screaming For Change
Protection
Gear to 2" including small cams
Optional 3.5" cam if going through the larger roof cracks
Portland, OR
Beaverton, Oregon
West Linn
Pacific Northwet