Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Afternoon Delight

5.7, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 27 votes
FA: 5-2007 Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Ozone > (4) Gold Wall
Warning Access Issue: Extremely Sensitive Access - Please Read DetailsDrop down

Description

For the 5.7 version, start on Kung Fu and clip its first bolt. Then move left into the vertical crack and corner system. At the small roof, move left to the Screaming For Change anchors.

For the direction "5.10" finish, which now (4/2018) has a bolted anchor, step left to avoid the loose blocks and pull around the left side of the roof to a stance. Shimmy atop the roof and then work your way up into the overhang. Pull through this with some fierce stemming, hand jamming, and crimp pulling. Apparently there is a "reach around happy finish" but this beta remains elusive. The "5.10" grade may be a bit of a sandbag... unusual at this crag.

Location

Just right of Screaming For Change

Protection

Gear to 2" including small cams

Optional 3.5" cam if going through the larger roof cracks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Afternoon Delight
[Hide Photo] Afternoon Delight

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I found the gear a little tricky on this route. Also, beware the many loose blocks under the roof to the right of the anchors. Aug 25, 2017
Nate Ball

  5.10+
[Hide Comment] The direct finish to this route now has a bolted anchor. It's a bit of a one-move-wonder but worthwhile if you're pushing yourself on gear here. Apr 20, 2018
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] Lots of loose blocks to kill your belayer with but you can avoid those easily. Plenty of good gear, I did not find the placements to be tricky. The 5.10 finish is very dirty in the upper crack. With a good cleaning the 5.10 finish would be great. May 23, 2018
Riley Cahoon
West Linn
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route. Pretty juggy thoughtful moves through some loose stuff here and there. This route earns its stars with it's gear eating thought provocation. The gear can be a little tricky because of the potential loose rock. But I ended up using 80% of a double rack, minus the 4 and bigger. Though I did use a 4 in one spot and a micro cam (0) with a nut backup. I give it three stars. Great for building gear confidence. Oct 3, 2020
Billcoe
Pacific Northwet
[Hide Comment] Gear to 2", small cams are nice. (#4 camalot optional) After pulling a few face moves, stay left and do not clip the 1st bolt of Kung Fu, ascent the obvious crack in a shallow dihedral that has nice rests between easy moves. At about of 80' you can bail left to the bolted anchor of Screaming For Change for a sweet 5.7, and/or continue up 1 of the 3 options towards the top and the gaping maw looming above. The FA party, first go-round, did what they called the "Reach Around Happy Finish" by climbing until your nose is almost in the gaping maw, then reaching around left to a jug (#4 cam fits in here) then finishing straight up. Apr 14, 2021