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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 5-2007 Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 327 total · 8/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

For the 5.7 version, start on Kung Fu and clip its first bolt. Then move left into the vertical crack and corner system. At the small roof, move left to the Screaming For Change anchors.

For the direction "5.10" finish, which now (4/2018) has a bolted anchor, step left to avoid the loose blocks and pull around the left side of the roof to a stance. Shimmy atop the roof and then work your way up into the overhang. Pull through this with some fierce stemming, hand jamming, and crimp pulling. Apparently there is a "reach around happy finish" but this beta remains elusive. The "5.10" grade may be a bit of a sandbag... unusual at this crag.

Location

Just right of Screaming For Change

Protection

Gear to 2" including small cams

Optional 3.5" cam if going through the larger roof cracks

Photos

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.7
I found the gear a little tricky on this route. Also, beware the many loose blocks under the roof to the right of the anchors. Aug 25, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
The direct finish to this route now has a bolted anchor. It's a bit of a one-move-wonder but worthwhile if you're pushing yourself on gear here. Apr 20, 2018
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
 
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
 
Lots of loose blocks to kill your belayer with but you can avoid those easily. Plenty of good gear, I did not find the placements to be tricky. The 5.10 finish is very dirty in the upper crack. With a good cleaning the 5.10 finish would be great. May 23, 2018

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