Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: 5-2007 Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 1,595 total · 15/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Extremely Sensitive Access - Please Read DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

For the 5.7 version, start on Kung Fu and clip its first bolt. Then move left into the vertical crack and corner system. At the small roof, move left to the Screaming For Change anchors.

For the direction "5.10" finish, which now (4/2018) has a bolted anchor, step left to avoid the loose blocks and pull around the left side of the roof to a stance. Shimmy atop the roof and then work your way up into the overhang. Pull through this with some fierce stemming, hand jamming, and crimp pulling. Apparently there is a "reach around happy finish" but this beta remains elusive. The "5.10" grade may be a bit of a sandbag... unusual at this crag.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Screaming For Change

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2" including small cams

Optional 3.5" cam if going through the larger roof cracks

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