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Mango Lassi Lulz Machine
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 8
votes
Routes in Lower Tokopah Dome
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1000 Piece Meal Deal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beauty and the Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Boardwalk Chimney, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mango Lassi Lulz Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tokopah Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R |
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Tokopah Reality T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Wallmart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 620 ft (188 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.62316, -118.6992 |
| FA: | Vitaliy Musiyenko and Adam Burch (4/17/2015) |
| Page Views: | 3,155 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | SirTobyThe3rd M on Apr 20, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
A very enjoyable route with some fun, moderate and a bit of hard climbing mixed in. The quality of rock, setting, sea of slingable chicken heads and lack of need for a giant rack make this climb a must do.
Pitch 1: 180 ft - 5.10+. Starts with well protected 5.8 slab to a stance below the bolt. You can place a BD .5 camalot below the overhang before clipping the bolt. Back clean the cam and place it below the big roof. Pull the roof and place a BD #1 or 0.75, than an offset purple/blue metolious or something like a green or a blue alien before clipping the bolt. One more bolt before the crux and a few more exciting moves before reaching thank god chicken heads. Climb straight up to a chicken head/bolt belay.
Pitch 2: 160 ft - 5.superfun chicken head jug haul to another chickenhead/bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: 150 ft - 5.10a. Great friction 5.8-9 slab past 3 bolts and a 5.9-10a move to pull the overhang past another bolt. More chicken heads take you to a chicken head anchor belay. Cool pitch.
Pitch 4: 130 ft - 5.6. Bolt off the belay protects the 5.6ish climbing to a cool yellow dike. Hike the dike and continue up low 5th terrain till it starts getting really easy. You can belay in a large stack of blocks to your left.
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