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Routes in Lower Tokopah Dome

Beauty and the Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Boardwalk Chimney, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tokopah Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 R
Tokopah Reality T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Wallmart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 620 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Adam Burch (4/17/2015)
Page Views: 931 total, 29/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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3 Opinions

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

A very enjoyable route with some fun, moderate and a bit of hard climbing mixed in. The quality of rock, setting, sea of slingable chicken heads and lack of need for a giant rack make this climb a must do.

Pitch 1: 180 ft - 5.10+. Starts with well protected 5.8 slab to a stance below the bolt. You can place a BD .5 camalot below the overhang before clipping the bolt. Back clean the cam and place it below the big roof. Pull the roof and place a BD #1 or 0.75, than an offset purple/blue metolious or something like a green or a blue alien before clipping the bolt. One more bolt before the crux and a few more exciting moves before reaching thank god chicken heads. Climb straight up to a chicken head/bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 160 ft - 5.superfun chicken head jug haul to another chickenhead/bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: 150 ft - 5.10a. Great friction 5.8-9 slab past 3 bolts and a 5.9-10a move to pull the overhang past another bolt. More chicken heads take you to a chicken head anchor belay. Cool pitch.

Pitch 4: 130 ft - 5.6. Bolt off the belay protects the 5.6ish climbing to a cool yellow dike. Hike the dike and continue up low 5th terrain till it starts getting really easy. You can belay in a large stack of blocks to your left.

Location

Starts just left of Welcome to Wallmart and right of The Boardwalk Chimney

Protection

Single rack from BD 0.5 to BD #.75. Blue/Purple offset useful for 1 placement in a flaring crack on P1.
Going on the todo list just for the name. Aug 9, 2017
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
I naked free-soloed this before you were born! Apr 21, 2015
Addem Bursh
  5.11-
Addem Bursh  
  5.11-
put one in the chamber...

Seriously though, this climb is a blast. It's got a little bit of everything, with lots of great movement through the harder sections. Fantastic moderate slab climbing that keeps you engaged, and the rock quality is out of control. You'll appreciate the bolt placements through the section of hard face climbing on the 1st pitch, make sure to load up on mango lassi before you pull the crux moves. Apr 21, 2015