Type: Trad, 620 ft (188 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Adam Burch (4/17/2015)
Page Views: 2,952 total · 26/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd M on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A very enjoyable route with some fun, moderate and a bit of hard climbing mixed in. The quality of rock, setting, sea of slingable chicken heads and lack of need for a giant rack make this climb a must do.

Pitch 1: 180 ft - 5.10+. Starts with well protected 5.8 slab to a stance below the bolt. You can place a BD .5 camalot below the overhang before clipping the bolt. Back clean the cam and place it below the big roof. Pull the roof and place a BD #1 or 0.75, than an offset purple/blue metolious or something like a green or a blue alien before clipping the bolt. One more bolt before the crux and a few more exciting moves before reaching thank god chicken heads. Climb straight up to a chicken head/bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 160 ft - 5.superfun chicken head jug haul to another chickenhead/bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: 150 ft - 5.10a. Great friction 5.8-9 slab past 3 bolts and a 5.9-10a move to pull the overhang past another bolt. More chicken heads take you to a chicken head anchor belay. Cool pitch.

Pitch 4: 130 ft - 5.6. Bolt off the belay protects the 5.6ish climbing to a cool yellow dike. Hike the dike and continue up low 5th terrain till it starts getting really easy. You can belay in a large stack of blocks to your left.

Location Suggest change

Starts just left of Welcome to Wallmart and right of The Boardwalk Chimney

Protection Suggest change

Single rack from BD 0.5 to BD #.75. Blue/Purple offset useful for 1 placement in a flaring crack on P1.

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