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Routes in The Cove

Anchors Away S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bat Company S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolting Ban TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5
Dream Catcher TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echo Chamber S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flume with a View S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flumetastic S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flumetastic Voyage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying Snakes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LOL TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Lime Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Long Shot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Predator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psyche Ward S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rip Cord TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ripple Effect S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vision Quest S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 115 ft
FA: Matt Franklin and Kelley Gilleran
Page Views: 247 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kelley Gilleran on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Overhanging blocky arete for the first 3 bolts. (High first bolt. Recommend stick-clip. The clipping hold for the first clip is cracked as well.) Reach a small ledge where there is a large block with a bolt in it. Clip it (optional) climb over the block and right to a tall slab. Thin climbing leads to good edges and pockets through the final steep bulge.

Location

On the far right of the cove area. Cross the bridge and turn immediately right (south) and walk for a couple hundred feet to access the trail to the wall. Route starts just north of a large fir tree and right of a large left-facing dirty corner.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. You can access the anchors for TR if you hike around the right side of the cove and go up a climbers trail to a ledge system and traverse north to a large pine and rap into the anchors. There are other anchors for different projects but only one has lead bolts.

Photos

Ellis L
Chico, CA
Ellis L   Chico, CA
A steep boulder problem down low leads to a long slab with great movement. Will clean up nicely with some more traffic. Definitely worth checking out. Nov 7, 2016
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
 
I added chains to the anchor at the top. Will add a bolt down low next chance I get. Jun 1, 2015
cool guys - maybe one more bolt down low? May 5, 2015