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Routes in The Cove

Anchors Away S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bat Company S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolting Ban TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V1 5
Dream Catcher TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echo Chamber S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flume with a View S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flumetastic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flumetastic Voyage S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying Snakes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
LOL TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
Lime Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Long Shot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Predator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psyche Ward S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulp Friction S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rip Cord TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ripple Effect S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vision Quest S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, TR, 115 ft
FA: Matt Franklin and Kelley Gilleran
Page Views: 311 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kelley Gilleran on Apr 20, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description [Suggest Change]

Overhanging blocky arete for the first 3 bolts. (High first bolt. Recommend stick-clip. The clipping hold for the first clip is cracked as well.) Reach a small ledge where there is a large block with a bolt in it. Clip it (optional) climb over the block and right to a tall slab. Thin climbing leads to good edges and pockets through the final steep bulge.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the far right of the cove area. Cross the bridge and turn immediately right (south) and walk for a couple hundred feet to access the trail to the wall. Route starts just north of a large dead fir tree and right of a large left-facing dirty corner.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. You can access the anchors for TR if you hike around the right side of the cove and go up a climbers trail to a ledge system and traverse north to a large pine and rap into the anchors. There are other anchors for different projects but only one has lead bolts.


cool guys - maybe one more bolt down low? May 5, 2015
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
Matt Franklin   Sacramento, CA
I added chains to the anchor at the top. Will add a bolt down low next chance I get. Jun 1, 2015
Ellis L
Ellis L   SLCish
A steep boulder problem down low leads to a long slab with great movement. Will clean up nicely with some more traffic. Definitely worth checking out. Nov 7, 2016

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