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Routes in Opposite Main Wall

Abstinence S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Archaic Revival S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baby Food S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chastity Belt S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chopper Copper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Breakfast S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Exit ArĂȘte Right S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gateway Drug S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geko Skin V2 5+
Pop Rocks V6 7A PG13
Terrys Angels S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wintu Wall S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
project groove S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
shred or dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Dan H
Page Views: 253 total · 6/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Apr 19, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

overhanging wall R of chastity via some hard moves after the 3rd bolt. F7c

Protection

6x 10mm x 150mm glueins, to anchors. 1st bolt needs a clip stick

Photos

Kyle Sherby
  5.12c/d
Kyle Sherby  
  5.12c/d
Short, stout and so sweet. If you can't reach the starting holds you can do an equally demanding variation from the left arete and heel hook your way onto the cauliflower holds 10 feet off the deck. Find the best sequence through pockets, sidepulls, and pinches to a decent rest; then, power through the burly crux on a slopy rail out left. Reach may help you get to the good holds up high.

Be wary of the swing into the rocks next to you beneath the first bolt. This route is harder than the 12b's on the main wall opposite you, maybe 12c/d? May 29, 2017

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