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Routes in The Main Wall

Beds are Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crank Whore S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranked on Fashion S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fashion Victim S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Genesis 666 S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love Muffin S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
No Quarter S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PMS S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pancake Day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quarter Ounce S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shrove Tuesday Finish, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Sluts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spread Eagle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Squeeze (closed project) S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tiger's Reach S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Sport
FA: dan
Page Views: 124 total · 3/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Apr 18, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

climb direct off the tree trunk to join spread eagle for one bolt then traverse left along the crimp line to a rockover move at the pancake, without hesitation aim for the letterbox above and an ok rest. From the staple escape left to the arete and into the groove, clipping one more bolt along the way (same finish as Tigers Reach)
F7b/+

Location

the fixe gluein line at the far left of main wall at the entrance to the cave. Starting off a felled tree.

Protection

7x glued in (with A7) 3/8" x 6" Fixe bolts to Fixe chains -(2x 12mm powers, 5piece expansion bolts)

Photos

Kyle Sherby
Redding, Ca
  5.12c
Kyle Sherby   Redding, Ca
  5.12c
Surprisingly great route. Awesome sustained climbing to the letterbox, followed by a heinous crux. The beta was hard to figure out with my 5'7" reach, but the sequence is superb once you find it. Sharp holds and tendon-straining side-pulls protect the 5.6 top-out. Sep 16, 2018
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
  5.12b
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
  5.12b
Im surprisingly surprised of your surprise. The direct finish is even better! Love muffin is also amazing btw Sep 19, 2018

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