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Routes in Hideaway Dome

Gumbi Parade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Pleasures T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One No-Trump T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Parade of Fools S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riding the Tongue, variation on One No-Trump T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: B Gillett
Page Views: 54 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Apr 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A moderate start protected with wires leads to short runout and ledge. Place small cams from the ledge, then with great care, go up a left-facing corner to clip the second bolt. The move to clip this beefy bolt is reasonable, but a fall here would be bad.

Work through a sequence of 5.10 cruxes clipping beefy bolts along the way. After the difficulties, follow the fat crack left to tree and belay.

Traverse up and right to reach rappel station on One No-Trump, skip the station on Parade of Fools.

Location

It is 10' uphill from huge, dead tree.

Protection

6 bolts/fixed pin + small wires or small gear + #3 & #3.5 Camalot for the exit.

Photos

Kevin P
Loveland
  5.10b PG13
Kevin P   Loveland
  5.10b PG13
My favorite route at the crag. Felt easier to me than Parade of Fools. You had to pull a little harder on the a few of the holds, but there were actually holds to pull on. Clipping the bolt at the small corner, like Ross says, is not that hard but don't blow it. The pro at this point is waaay below your feet. Used the tree as an anchor and walked off. Apr 26, 2015