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Cleotitis

5.12b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: David Caunt
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock & S… > Falls Area > Waterfall Cliff
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

Bolted face. Up to a break, then up and right. The route has a 5.10 extension up to the upper bolts. If this were cleaned off, it would be an excellent route.

Protection

Bolts. The TR bolts above the extension are easy to scramble to.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The top anchor for this is up and skiers left of the clamydia anchor, on top of the flake/block, under the tree branch that sticks out over the face. It's an easy scramble from just uphill.

The climbing up to the hueco is good movement on good rock, probably 11-. The moves through the hueco are scary because that flake is jank as hell and the moves onto the pedestal above are desperate and sandy, we couldn't puzzle them out. Above that it kinda devolves into licheny crumble junk with intermittent cool holds. There's one combative bush encounter below the midway anchor and then some wide fat flap climbing to the top. Cleaning this route would probably change the nature of it significantly, and it's hard to say if it is even a realistic prospect. Jul 24, 2022