Sport, 70 ft,
Avg: 2.1 from 8
FA: Dustin Stephen in 2013
> Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Buckeye Buttress
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
A decent route with a slab start, a standing rest in the middle and a steep finish.
Crimpy slab moves on slightly friable rock get you to a huge scoop where you can relax and scope out the steep upper half. Exit the scoop, and follow deep pockets, and cool pinches to 5 feet below the anchor where the holds seem to peter out. Cut hard left to some knobs, and do an exciting finish move to the lip.
Top gets wet in heavy rain. Will be a nice route when the rock cleans up a bit more.
Sport route to the right of Heart Shape Box.
Bolts and a two bolt anchor.