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Leftomaniac

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
FA: Dustin Stephen in 2013
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recre… > Motherlode > Buckeye Buttress
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

A decent route with a slab start, a standing rest in the middle and a steep finish.

Crimpy slab moves on slightly friable rock get you to a huge scoop where you can relax and scope out the steep upper half. Exit the scoop, and follow deep pockets, and cool pinches to 5 feet below the anchor where the holds seem to peter out. Cut hard left to some knobs, and do an exciting finish move to the lip.

Top gets wet in heavy rain. Will be a nice route when the rock cleans up a bit more.

Location

Sport route to the right of Heart Shape Box.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.