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Routes in Sunshine Ridge

Draino T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exotic Dancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Sucker S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey Operator S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huge Left Faceing Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Last Call S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mayday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plebeian Paradise S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Poser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Rain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Soda S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Warrior S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sex on the Rocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thrombosis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unforgiven, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whajacallit T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Williams and Friends
Page Views: 818 total, 25/month
Shared By: C. Williams on Apr 15, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on a clean face on the right side of the tundra knoll. A scramble right will bring you to a grey belay bolt. Fun face moves past the first three bolts before easier ground. The fourth bolt hides up and left of the small tree. Clip this and traverse right to good rock. the anchor for the first pitch is in an alcove behind the tree at the top of the pitch. A 35m First pitch!

For the second pitch run it out to the bolt high up on the bulge. A short but fun boulder problem guards the bulge before easy climbing past one more bolt and the anchor. A cool all gear variation to this pitch follows broken cracks up and right from the belay, gear to 2".

Location

250' above the parking for Sunshine Ridge. The best approach is a scramble up Thrombosis gully to the tundra, continuing up and left to the nice tundra knoll with a large half dead spruce tree. Walk off as for Sunshine Ridge or rap.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts
P2: 2 bolts opt. gear to 2"
bolted anchors

Photos

C. Williams
the Climber Cave
 
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
 
The route with spinners and no links on the anchor is one of two unknown single pitch routes between The Unforgiven and Last Call. The second pitch of The Unforgiven is defined by a short obvious headwall 20ft above the first pitch anchor. Two bolts protect the left variation, clearly obvious from the anchor. Jan 28, 2016
The next person to climb this route should bring a small wrench and some locktite. The hangars on the last two bolts before the first pitch anchor are loose. Also, we didn't see bolts on the second pitch but we found enough cam placements to protect it well enough. The first pitch anchor could use some rap links. I didn't think the second pitch was worth doing again and I'd rap off after the first pitch if I were to do the route again. Sep 20, 2015
Kevin Downie
  5.8-
Kevin Downie  
  5.8-
Thanks to those who took the time to bolt this route. It's nice to have something new along the Arm. I felt like the route is rated a little high; we felt most of it was a 5.6 scramble with 2 perhaps 5.8 moves at the start of each pitch. This climb has a lot less lichen than its neighbor climb "Last Call". Apr 24, 2015