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Routes in Bughouse Heights

Fata Morgana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy's Galore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salamander T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skullduggery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting in the Tail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pink to Think T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark van Eijk on Apr 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Tackles the broken cracks at the far south (right) end of bughouse heights. Start on an awkward wide crack behind a large detached flake. Head up to an alcove, then out and left by way of underclinging and laybacking to the anchors.

Packs in a good variety of climbing on several nice features. Unfortunately it is not very consistent in difficulty or quality. Short, aesthetic cruxes are interrupted by easy scrambling up unappealing rock.

The book calls it 5.8 but I'm listing it as 5.9 based on my and my parters' experience and the spray on the web.

Location

On the far right end of bughouse heights. It is the system of cracks immediately climber's left of the fixed lines up to left Penny Lane.

Protection

Good pro. Standard rack to 4"

Photos

Ryan Lynne  
 
I think this may be the hardest 5.8 in the Smokebluffs! Mar 5, 2016

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