Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 187 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark van Eijk on Apr 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Tackles the broken cracks at the far south (right) end of bughouse heights. Start on an awkward wide crack behind a large detached flake. Head up to an alcove, then out and left by way of underclinging and laybacking to the anchors.

Packs in a good variety of climbing on several nice features. Unfortunately it is not very consistent in difficulty or quality. Short, aesthetic cruxes are interrupted by easy scrambling up unappealing rock.

The book calls it 5.8 but I'm listing it as 5.9 based on my and my parters' experience and the spray on the web.

Location

On the far right end of bughouse heights. It is the system of cracks immediately climber's left of the fixed lines up to left Penny Lane.

Protection

Good pro. Standard rack to 4"

Photos

Ryan Lynne  
 
I think this may be the hardest 5.8 in the Smokebluffs! Mar 5, 2016