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Routes in Down Valley, Telluride

Bilk Creek Falls WI4
Down Valley Flower WI4-
Pretty Little Red Head T WI4 M5- PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 336 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Wright on Apr 14, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is one of those little, hotty drools that nearly get ice climbers in car wreaks. Catch her in the right conditions, and she is worth the risk.

It is road side ice cragging and south-facing. If it's going to be a warm, sunny day, get on her early as she faces south. If it's in at all, it will never be fat as it's not stream fed. It's simple snow melt.

Has it been done before? Who knows? It's not in the books. This was probably soloed and forgotten by any number of hard men and women that have called Telluride home over the years.

Location

The climb is on the right side of the road heading from Telluride to Placerville. It's 1/4 mile after the turn off for the Silver Pick Rd. perhaps a mile or so before Sawpit. There is adequate parking on the left side of road. Look for the turnouts. Obviously one should park facing the direction of traffic. Keep in mind DOT might have other plans for those pullouts.

Protection

As for pro: bring the usual screws and plenty of rock gear. She's pretty hard and skinny. There are no anchors on top. There is a pretty big juniper bush twenty feet back from the edge and 10 feet to the right. See the photo.

You can make a short rap from the tree which tops the short slot climber's right. See the photo. That slot is another fun little route.

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