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Read My Lips

5.11b PG13, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Bob Gaines and Pat Horan, December 1989
California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Description

Located 40 feet right of Avanti.

Climb a steep bulge past 3 horizontals to a slab with 2 bolts. The crux is the start.

Protection

Pro to 2.5 inches, 2 bolts.

2-bolt anchor at the top (Rap 50 ft.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

at the start before the big move left to the bucket.
[Hide Photo] at the start before the big move left to the bucket.
Peter Hayes above the crux, 1991.
[Hide Photo] Peter Hayes above the crux, 1991.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Here's my Pro Beta:

.5 or #1 Tricam to start (...You DO use these, right?...)

Red TCU or Yellow Alien

#2 Camalot

...Then 2 bolts to the top, with a .10- move at the last bolt

So, no need to haul the wall rack up this tidy little gem. I think the heel hook move in that "rock box" is one of the coolest, most novel, little moves in the Monument...er...Park. (I left Cali. when it was still a monument, and there was no road circling Intersection rock.)

I'm glad to see that Bob gives up the .11b, because I thought it was pretty stout and in your face. Better warm up real well, because the flash pump comes a knockin' while you fiddle with the good pro...have a spotter/crash pad...just sayin'...

Best to rap with one rope...fast and less sketchy than the down climb. Apr 14, 2015
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] A casual route, bomber pro, no heal hooking needed, no warm-up needed before climbing this classic route. bolts on top for anchor. Jul 10, 2018