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Routes in Westwand

Abba Zappa T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Alte Westwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baumvariente T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Reithofer (5 A1) 1954
Page Views: 258 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Klassen on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Phenomenal climbing. The area classic.

P1 - Well protected (roughly) 5.6 climbing to a huge ledge with a single behemoth rap/anchor ring. 20 Meters. On that ledge, there are two major rap rings visible. Chose the visible rap ring on the left without leaving the main ledge area. This rap ring should be just to the right of the small roof above you.

P2 - Move off the anchor to some easy moves. Move to the center of the roof clipping a bolt and pull the roof (either to the left or right). Continue climbing through superb 5.9 moves and 2 bolts. Top out at the huge ledge with great views all around.

Location

Finding the Route -

From the same start as Abba-Zappa - step up on the large flake/crack system marked in the beta picture and continue rightward.

Getting off -

Storm the castle! Make easy 3rd class moves up towards the castle, hop the fence, and walk off. Or...

Rappel with 2 60m ropes from the single rap ring at the top.

Protection

The whole route is very well protected where needed. 6 bolts on the entire route protects areas of blank faces or rock not suitable for gear. Despite the 6 bolts, this climb is not a sport climb. Good 5.9 movement is made on gear only sections of the climb.

Photos

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