Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Terrapin Throne
|Mack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Plunk! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 275 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||T. and P.|
|Page Views:||178 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||sean peters on Apr 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
DescriptionPitch one contains the crux. Some questionable rock and a bulge. The pitch is about 150 feet, has a bit of lichen at the start, loose rock midway and near the belay. Pitch two (125 feet) follows crack system along an increasingly narrowing ledge with a short boulder problem near the beginning. Nice views into the big chimney/slot.
LocationIn between the two obvious chimney systems there is hand to finger sized crack that is easily accessed from the sloping rope-up spot. The crack tends to angle right and goes through a short, mini roof. The first pitch ends just after the roof. Also, two distinctly lighter shades of rock can be noticed on the approach, the route stays to the left of these.
Descend off the slightly lower east side of the formation. One rope and two rappels (two rap stations) places you at the base and 10 minutes from your packs.
You might be able to walk off the formation (south side) but will have a thrash getting back to the packs.