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Routes in Bald Rock Dome

Bit Of Honey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groove, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moroccan Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Six Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smooth Operator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trip Around the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Joe Kelsey
Page Views: 500 total · 12/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Apr 12, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

the most obvious line, following a prominent weakness from the toe of the Dome all the way up to it's summit. Because it is such an iconic line, and because it protects fairly well (although pro can be a little sketchy), it has tended to be one of the most popular lines on the Dome.
Pitch 1: About 20' right of the obvious bolt line of "Smooth Operator" locate 3 harder to spot, old bolts that zig-zag their way up the slab. Head up and left to a bolt, then back right to a second bolt, then back left (5.9 though some say as hard as .1 Ob) to the third and final bolt, which, along with some pro in the crack on the left, serves as the anchor.
Pitch 2: From the anchor, set solid pro and climb straight up to a steep lieback (5.9) that is the start of the actual groove. This crack eventually peters out and from its top, head up and left on unprotected but easier face to another crack and single bolt anchor (supplement with pro in the crack).
Pitch 3: Follow the easy crack and groove straight up until you can escape left to another crack and a small ledge. Set an anchor with natural pro here.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up the easy crack/groove until it ends. Set an anchor here to prepare for the face above.
Pitch 5: Climb the easy face to a 5.7 crack up and left. When the crack ends, head up and right to the obvious dihedral. Belay at the base of this corner.
Pitch 6: Follow this corner up at least one more pitch to the top of the Dome.
Descent: Rap down "Foxtrot" or "6-Pitch" or walk down the gully if you need to get bock to the bose of the Dome.

Location

walk down the gully and do a couple of abseils off trees to get to the base of the crag. The groove is the only really obvious line on the crag.

Protection

Gear: Pro to 2.5"

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
  5.9
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
  5.9
would be 3stars if it had decent bolted anchors. The original route has small pitches, ending in non logical belays. (it would be way better to end for example on the obvious ledge.) So we ended up running pitches together, basically stopping at about 60m out, then setting up an anchor on whatever.

1st pitch is by far the hardest technical climbing, with a couple of smearing moves on superb granite straight from Tuolumne meadows.. Apr 12, 2015
wcayler
Norther CA
 
wcayler   Norther CA
 
I thought this route was just as good as six pitch, 3 stars. I think was harder than six pitch mentally and physically. I don't think there was anything sketchy about the pro considering the area. I agree with crimper that it would be really nice for the belays to have bolts but that isn't for me to decide. The first pitch has a bolt at the anchor, but only one bolt, and the gear behind the flake is finicky and hollow at best for example. We only brought a single rack, but I would recommend being doubles of cams between .4-1 maybe 2, this would allow you to do longer pitches like crimper said. I felt that this route didn't take nuts very well, but offset nuts were very nice. The topo we brought ended after the 5th pitch, the route ended in adventure for us, the NE CA book shows the end continuing up the groove off to the left after the 5th pitch for two more pitches. Jan 30, 2018

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