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Routes in The Wafers

Jack of All Trades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land of the Lost S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let the Healing Begin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peopleburg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon Lohbeck Memorial S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sn4tchbuckl3r S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stranger in a Strange Land T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Left of Let the Healing Begin TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tim Barton and Bryan Gartland (~1999)
Page Views: 415 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bryan Gartland on Apr 10, 2015
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This route doesn't appear to get climbed very often judging by the thick brush at the base, but is a worthy objective nonetheless. Find the climb just right (north) of a large overhang feature.

Escape the shrubbery by following 3 or 4 bolts up a clean slab to the base of a small roof. Moving into the dihedral to the right might seem to be the direct line, but instead turn the roof, plug a cam into the crack/flake to your left and fire for the anchors.

Location

The climb is located in a south-facing alcove between the popular Peopleburg area and the Land of the Lost slab. Access the alcove by following the shady draw downhill on the south side of the Wafers. Turn left or north into the alcove just before arriving at Land of the Lost. Look for bolts rising out of thick bushes on an east-facing slab below the roof/crack finish.

A toprope can be set by scrambling up easier rock to the north.

Protection

Quickdraws and a 2-inch cam to protect the flaring flake below the anchors. Bolted anchor.

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