The Incision
A2,
Trad, Aid, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Index
> Cheeks
> (1) Upper Cheeks
> (a) Oz
Description
Cramer calls it a "lower angle, thinner, City Park." Thinner is the key word there, aside from the first six feet and the last ten, virtually the only solid pieces will be lost arrows and knifeblades.
The climb starts with some semi-mandatory free climbing. If it was clean and dry this would be mostly unprotected 5.9, but you can aid through almost all of it, be careful though, as the right facing corner crack expands a little and decking is a real possibility.
Farther up there are a couple loose blocks and flakes to avoid, being good at high-stepping and cam hooking is helpful, in the absence of these skills, be tall.
Fairly unrelenting thinness leads to a small lip and eventually a gradually easing finish.
Location
Just before the huge block by the Perverse Traverse
Protection
Standard aid rack, including specifically -
Single set of cams to .75, doubles of .3-.5
Small offset nuts
Cam hooks
Lost arrows, shorter ones more useful than longer
Knifeblades, all sizes
Beaks/Tomahawks
New anchor bolts were installed in April of 2015, but bring tat because there are no chains and this climb is seldom done.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top
[Hide Photo] View from the bottom of the route. Red circle is where the flake came off. Flake was not needed to climb the route.
As of 8/24 there are good anchors with chains at the top. The loose flake on the right about a 1/3 of the way up came off when I stopped to check it out again in rappel.
See my full write up here:
mountainproject.com/forum/t… Aug 5, 2024
Index