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Ad Lib

5.10a, Trad, 55 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1986
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag


This is the obvious right-leaning thin crack just left of a low angle right-leaning, left-facing dihedral on the north face of Dead Snag. A mix of jamming and face moves gets progressively more difficult toward the top. Stuart gave the route one out of three stars when he and Libby cleaned and climbed it in 1986, but lichen and vegetation invaded the crack until it was “restored” in March 2015. Get it before it grows back! The north face of Dead Snag rarely gets sun, so it’'s comfortable all day during the dog days of summer.


Right (north) of North Dihedrals, around the corner on the smoothish north face of Dead Snag. Approach by either walking downhill along the wall from the North Dihedrals to Dead Snag's toe and turning left to thrash up through the bushes and scree, or follow the approach to Social Engineering and drop downhill maybe 25 feet. Rap or lower from the original pins backed up by a new bolt.


Set of wireds and cams to a red Camalot (no. 1). Microcams are useful.

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Sam leading the route.
[Hide Photo] Sam leading the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] The dirt is already coming back! As JS said, get on it before it fills back up with grime, it's a worthy route which starts easy and gets progressively harder and thinner. Jun 1, 2015
[Hide Comment] Worth doing. Stances remind of Goodro's. Take your stoppers. Aug 9, 2017
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] Boissal was right the dirt is invading. (Still a worthy climb IMO, don't let it scare you off) The last 2 hard moves to finish definitely have some mud in them. Manageable but would be heady on lead since you really need those holds. My partner finished the last move straight up and said it felt about as hard but cleaner. Apr 22, 2018
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] Awesome finger locks! Really nice overlooked route that could use some more traffic. Jul 24, 2018