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Routes in 9 - Sunshine Cliff

Corn Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobknob T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: George Meyers, Merrill Wilson (Oct '86)
Page Views: 64 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Bolted face just to the right of Corn Corner. The bolts have been recently replaced and are in good shape. The rock is somewhat flaky and the climb isn't very sustained, but if you like knob climbs it's worth doing.

P1 - Scramble up to a little shelf above a pine tree and place some pro in a thin crack. Wander out right to a bolt then back left through a little bulge. Either belay at a bolted anchor or link with the next pitch.

P2 - Follow bolts up the face with big knobs and belay at a large ledge with bushes/trees. You can rap from here, or walk off to the right if you're planning on returning to the base of the wall for another climb. The upper pitches aren't very good and are only worth it if you're climbing back up to the road.

P3&4 - Either climb up the dirty crack above the ledge (5.7) or solo easy knobs off to the left (5.6 R/X). Soon the angle kicks back to 4th class. The belay options aren't great, either traverse over to trees in the gully to the right, or simul to the top. Watch out because the slab has a lot of loose sand and lichen on it.

Protection

Pro to 2", mostly bolt protected.

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