Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total · 4/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 6, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Great face climbing! This is one of our favorites on the Red Dog buttress.

Start about 20' right of Treat. An easy ramp leads to a steepening face below a line of bolts. Plug some gear as you head up the ramp. Pull an easy bulge to get to the first bolt. Follow seams, slopers, and some good ledges to a few more bolts until you reach the final "headwall" bulge. Be sure to get a piece before the 3rd bolt on the original start. Plug some gear and make the funky mantle. You can either finish slightly right to a set of anchors, or go left to the anchors on Treat.

An alternate start is down and to the right at the face where there are two bolts, and the second bolt has a quick link. After doing the move at the second bolt, continue up, get a good finger sized piece and cut hard left, then up to get to the original first bolt. Adds about 30' more of good face climbing. Lots of extensions to make it run smooth.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the Red Dog buttress, which is the last buttress before reaching the multipitch SE face. Look for the long flat rock on the trail and the quick link on the second bolt next to the short left facing flake. Either start on the ramp just right of Treat or the alternate that leads through the two bolts (2nd w/ quick link).

Protection

Finger sized to #2 with extra in the medium size range (or tricams) and a small rack of medium sized nuts, several 2' runners and extra draws for extending. There are two sets of 2 bolt anchors nearby. A 60m should get you down, but a 70m is better if you plan to use the right anchor or TR other nearby routes.

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