Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Left of main southeast face

Crimpers delight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky 13th (CRS) pitch 1 - 5.10c, pitch 2 5.11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
On second thought T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
One Pitch Wonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sailor Moon T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Save the Shrimp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Scarecrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seam of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spooktacular T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Treat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Zombie Spoof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 143 total, 4/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 6, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Great face climbing! This is one of our favorites on the Red Dog buttress.

Start about 20' right of Treat. An easy ramp leads to a steepening face below a line of bolts. Plug some gear as you head up the ramp. Pull an easy bulge to get to the first bolt. Follow seams, slopers, and some good ledges to a few more bolts until you reach the final "headwall" bulge. Be sure to get a piece before the 3rd bolt on the original start. Plug some gear and make the funky mantle. You can either finish slightly right to a set of anchors, or go left to the anchors on Treat.

An alternate start is down and to the right at the face where there are two bolts, and the second bolt has a quick link. After doing the move at the second bolt, continue up, get a good finger sized piece and cut hard left, then up to get to the original first bolt. Adds about 30' more of good face climbing. Lots of extensions to make it run smooth.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the Red Dog buttress, which is the last buttress before reaching the multipitch SE face. Look for the long flat rock on the trail and the quick link on the second bolt next to the short left facing flake. Either start on the ramp just right of Treat or the alternate that leads through the two bolts (2nd w/ quick link).

Protection

Finger sized to #2 with extra in the medium size range (or tricams) and a small rack of medium sized nuts, several 2' runners and extra draws for extending. There are two sets of 2 bolt anchors nearby. A 60m should get you down, but a 70m is better if you plan to use the right anchor or TR other nearby routes.

Photos

0 Comments