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Routes in Fire Wall

A Goat, A Yurt, A Wheel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Goat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheroots of Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Right Leg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Firefly Engagement S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flaming Longyis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hot Season S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lava Smoothie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Long Hot Season S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magmasquitos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paper Lantern S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip 'n Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win For The Win S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 72 total, 2/month
Shared By: Andrew Riley on Apr 3, 2015
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Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks contact Technical Climbing Club Myanmar (TCCM) for more information Details

Description

Hot Season was bolted and first climbed by Tyler Hoffart. The route is extremely loose; the times I've been on it, I've showered my belayer with small loose rock and grit accompanied by the occassional larger hold breaking off. The route is somewhat runnout between some of the bolts in the upper section where the rock is the worst quality. It's a bold route in the sense that when you are high above your bolt you don't know if the hold you are on will break off. There is still an unclimbed extension that continues through the roof at the top of the route.

Location

Furthest right route on Fire Wall, route number 11 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts, missing the first couple of hanger, there are carabiners at the anchor.

Photos

Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar
 
Knocked a couple of big blocks off of this route on lead this weekend. I'm not convinced that this route is one that will really clean up, the loose sections feel more like compacted dirt than rock. My honest advice is to avoid it unless you have nothing left to climb. Feb 8, 2016