All Locations > International > Asia > Myanmar > Mandalay Area > Waterfall Hill… > Fire Wall

Firefly Engagement

Name: Firefly Engagement
Rating: 4.0

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Fire Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Goat, A Yurt, A Wheel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Big Goat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cheroots of Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Devil's Right Leg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Firefly Engagement S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Flaming Longyis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hot Season S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Lava Smoothie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Long Hot Season S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Magmasquitos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Paper Lantern S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Slip 'n Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Win For The Win S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	21.96663, 96.21605
FA:	Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
Page Views:	858 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Andy Riley on Apr 3, 2015
Admins:	Andy Riley Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details

This climbing area is intertwined with monasteries and pagodas. It is critical for climbing in Myanmar to maintain these relationships through respectful conduct with the monks and the surrounding areas. Please be modest, respectful, friendly, and responsive to the wishes of the monks and local people. Do not climb on religious monuments, and remove shoes when crossing over established pagoda areas.

Description

A hard and proud route. Climbs vertical 5.11, to easy and somewhat loose slab, to a proud, hard, exposed, continuous 5.12 crux that is essentially three boulder problems in a row with marginal rests to clip the bolts. Get ready for geometric climbing and compression on slopers and pinches with a few jugs and crimps thrown in as well. Finishes with a very exposed panel to the anchors hanging at the highest point on the wall. The rock in the crux is some of the better rock on a rather loose wall.

Tyler Hoffart on establishing this line:

"While I have love for all these routes, I left behind a true hard gem right up the middle of the Firewall, climbing a wildly exposed and DIFFICULT compressionish-arete to a super-airy and inspiring over-hanging face at the anchors. It’s one of the most exposed finishes I have ever experienced. I gave it a really good go the other day, but fell short. I put all the moves together but someone else will have to come take care of this thing unless I get back first! Looking to be a hard 12c, this route aims to please. I have dubbed it Firefly."

Location

Up the biggest, baddest section of Fire Wall, number 8 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts, carabiner anchors. Unlike most of the routes at Firewall, this route is not missing any bolt hangers because the first couple of bolts are glue-ins. I would recommend extending the first 5 draws and also the 7th: It's not absolutely necessary, but it helps with clipping the last bolt and anchors.