Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 329 total · 6/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Apr 3, 2015
Admins: Andy Riley

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Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details

Description

A hard and proud route. Climbs vertical 5.11, to easy and somewhat loose slab, to a proud, hard, exposed, continuous 5.12 crux that is essentially three boulder problems in a row with marginal rests to clip the bolts. Get ready for geometric climbing and compression on slopers and pinches with a few jugs and crimps thrown in as well. Finishes with a very exposed panel to the anchors hanging at the highest point on the wall. The rock in the crux is some of the better rock on a rather loose wall.

Location

Up the biggest, baddest section of Fire Wall, number 8 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts, carabiner anchors. Unlike most of the routes at Firewall, this route is not missing any bolt hangers because the first couple of bolts are glue-ins. I would recommend extending the first 5 draws and also the 7th: It's not absolutely necessary, but it helps with clipping the last bolt and anchors.

Photos