Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fire Wall

A Goat, A Yurt, A Wheel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Goat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheroots of Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Right Leg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Firefly Engagement S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flaming Longyis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hot Season S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Lava Smoothie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Long Hot Season S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magmasquitos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paper Lantern S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip 'n Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win For The Win S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: FFA: Andrew Riley, Equipped by: Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 214 total · 6/month
Shared By: Andrew Riley on Apr 3, 2015
Admins: Andrew Riley

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details

Description

A hard proud route. Climbs vertical 5.11, to easy and somewhat loose slab, to a proud, hard, exposed, continuous 5.12 crux that is essentially three boulder problems in a row with marginal rests to clip the bolts. Get ready for geometric climbing and compression on slopers and pinches with a few jugs and crimps thrown in as well. Finishes with a very exposed panel to the anchors hanging at the highest point on the wall. The rock in the crux is some of the better rock on a rather loose wall.

Location

Up the biggest baddest section of Fire Wall, number 8 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts, carabiner anchors. Unlike most of the routes at Firewall, this route is not missing any bolt hangers because the first couple of bolts are glue-ins. I would recommend extending the first 5 draws and also the 7th: It's not absolutely necessary, but it helps with clipping the last bolt and anchors.

Photos

Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar  
 
The finish is so rad, made me want to pee my pants every time I climbed up that last panel to the anchor. Mar 30, 2016
Tyler
 
Tyler  
 
Oh gosh what a gem. Congrats to Andrew for taking it down. How about that exposed finish, ey! So wild and so much fun. Bravo! Mar 26, 2016
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar  
 
Thanks Steve. I think you're right, and I would also love to see more of the harder climbs at WFH getting a little bit more love in general. Aug 17, 2015
Steve Davis
Tucson, AZ
Steve Davis   Tucson, AZ
Great work Andrew! I hope it sees a second ascent before long. I think people tend to underestimate the difficulty from the ground, because the wall looks so featured. Aug 16, 2015
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar  
 
Finally got the FA of this line today! After getting completely rained out on our last trip up to Mandalay, I sent it on my 8th day on. Named it the Firefly Engagement to honor Tyler Hoffart's original name Firefly and also because I was projecting this route when I proposed to my fiance at the monastery at the top of Waterfall Hill.

As for the grade, I think it's harder than any other 5.12c I've sent; however, I think the FA process of finding the beta, cleaning and chalking the holds, etc. Usually makes the route seem harder, so let's go with 5.12c for now.

Overall, not the best quality line in the world, but great for Mandalay and great for Myanmar. Get on it, and get ready to take some whippers! Aug 15, 2015
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
 
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar  
 
This thing is hard! I put 5 days into it in the past couple of months, and I almost found my way through the last of the crux this weekend. Maybe next time. Jun 11, 2015

More About Firefly Engagement

Printer-Friendly Guide