Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 754 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Apr 3, 2015
Admins: Andy Riley

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Description Suggest change

A hard and proud route. Climbs vertical 5.11, to easy and somewhat loose slab, to a proud, hard, exposed, continuous 5.12 crux that is essentially three boulder problems in a row with marginal rests to clip the bolts. Get ready for geometric climbing and compression on slopers and pinches with a few jugs and crimps thrown in as well. Finishes with a very exposed panel to the anchors hanging at the highest point on the wall. The rock in the crux is some of the better rock on a rather loose wall.

Tyler Hoffart on establishing this line:

"While I have love for all these routes, I left behind a true hard gem right up the middle of the Firewall, climbing a wildly exposed and DIFFICULT compressionish-arete to a super-airy and inspiring over-hanging face at the anchors. It’s one of the most exposed finishes I have ever experienced. I gave it a really good go the other day, but fell short. I put all the moves together but someone else will have to come take care of this thing unless I get back first! Looking to be a hard 12c, this route aims to please. I have dubbed it Firefly."

Location Suggest change

Up the biggest, baddest section of Fire Wall, number 8 on the Fire Wall topo photo.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, carabiner anchors. Unlike most of the routes at Firewall, this route is not missing any bolt hangers because the first couple of bolts are glue-ins. I would recommend extending the first 5 draws and also the 7th: It's not absolutely necessary, but it helps with clipping the last bolt and anchors.

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