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Slingshot Monkey

5.12b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
International > Asia > Myanmar > Mandalay Area > Waterfall Hill… > Monk's Life Wall
Warning Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks DetailsDrop down

Description

Tyler Hoffart bolted this route and hypothesized that the full line would be in the 5.13 range. Slingshot Monkey is the first pitch of the route. It starts with a slab to a fun overhanging boulder problem. The climbing eases up a little, but remains technical and pumpy all the way to the chains. For the extension/second pitch see American Outlaw.

Location

The first pitch of the rightmost line on the wall. Number 3 on the Monk's Life Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts. I just added bolt hangers to the first and third bolts, which previously did not have hangers. Just a warning the hangers that I added are plated steel (12/26/15). They will not hold up as long as the other stainless steel hangers on the route and should be watched pretty closely in the upcoming years. Carabiners at the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

FA of Slingshot Monkey
[Hide Photo] FA of Slingshot Monkey
Monk's Life topo photo, Slingshot Monkey is number 3 on the topo photo.
[Hide Photo] Monk's Life topo photo, Slingshot Monkey is number 3 on the topo photo.
Start of Slingshot Monkey
[Hide Photo] Start of Slingshot Monkey
Slingshot Monkey
[Hide Photo] Slingshot Monkey

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Spent some time trying the moves and scrubbing the dust, grime, and loose rock off of this route yesterday, ended up getting the surprise send today for the FA. Great climb and great addition, now that there is chalk on the holds and hangers on the bolts. Several bouldery sequences on the route. I can't wait to start trying the extension. Dec 27, 2015
Steven Davis
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Good work! How long is the route? Jan 2, 2016
Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] It's about 70 feet to the first anchor. Jan 3, 2016