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Routes in Monk's Life Wall

American Outlaw S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Homage Project S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slingshot Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Bros S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Andrew Riley
Page Views: 187 total · 5/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Apr 3, 2015
Admins: Andy Riley

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Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details

Description

Tyler Hoffart bolted this route and hypothesized that the full line would be in the 5.13 range. Slingshot Monkey is the first pitch of the route. It starts with a slab to a fun overhanging boulder problem. The climbing eases up a little, but remains technical and pumpy all the way to the chains. For the extension/second pitch see American Outlaw.

Location

The first pitch of the rightmost line on the wall. Number 3 on the Monk's Life Wall topo photo.

Protection

Bolts. I just added bolt hangers to the first and third bolts, which previously did not have hangers. Just a warning the hangers that I added are plated steel (12/26/15). They will not hold up as long as the other stainless steel hangers on the route and should be watched pretty closely in the upcoming years. Carabiners at the anchor.

Photos

Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
  5.12b
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
  5.12b
Spent some time trying the moves and scrubbing the dust, grime, and loose rock off of this route yesterday, ended up getting the surprise send today for the FA. Great climb and great addition, now that there is chalk on the holds and hangers on the bolts. Several bouldery sequences on the route. I can't wait to start trying the extension. Dec 27, 2015
Steven Brian
Tucson, AZ
Steven Brian   Tucson, AZ
Good work! How long is the route? Jan 2, 2016
Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
  5.12b
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
  5.12b
It's about 70 feet to the first anchor. Jan 3, 2016

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