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Routes in Three Tower Buttress

Cowboy, Mutton Bustin', The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dawn of an Age T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Indian, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 PG13
Roadside Wide Hands Splitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskey Bottle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unkown
Page Views: 138 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Widen on Apr 3, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Reach the notch between the Whiskey Bottle and the Indian via 1. a hand to ow crack (looks 5.10-ish) on the south side; 2. a scramble from the north side; or 3. rap from the top of the Indian. The south side crack looks best, and will be the only quality climbing you'll do (see below).

Creatively build an anchor on the notch, step out on the south face, and climb a mostly thin crack to a ledge below the summit block. The rock in this whole section is BAD, and there are 5.10 moves with pro in sandy cracks. Might be partly aidable. From the ledge, clip a bolt, then do a couple 5.11 moves to better holds and the top - OR, stick clip the anchor first for a TR (which we did).

Location

Westernmost of the three towers

Protection

2 ea. cams 0.3 - #1 Camalot, plus a few tiny cams. One #6 would help with the belay at the notch, but who wants to carry THAT up?

Photos

Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
Rather than belaying from the notch, it worked well just to start from the ground on the south side and doing it in one pitch. I'd agree with the R rating, this was pretty scary. Aiding off the bolt then freeing to the top wasn't too bad difficulty or safety wise. If doing it all free though I would want to use a stick clip too, because you'd be doing the hard moves right off a ledge. Jan 18, 2018

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