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Routes in Southwest Corner

Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Powder! T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg and Stuart Coffield, 2001
Page Views: 132 total, 4/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 2, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

There are two distinct cruxes on this little adventure. One up high that is pumpy and the other is keeping it together for the lower section.

This climb starts on the upper tier. Some of the bolts are obvious from the ground. Start by surmounting a short steep section of rock. Find a few small pieces of gear in the face. Blast up (harder) or out right (dirty) to gain the ramp and crack above that leads up and left. At the top of the ramp, the wall steepens again. Get good gear here and watch for bad rock. Once you are through this section you get to start clipping bolts, thank goodness, but it gets pumpy! Pull over the last lip to the slab and cruise to the anchors.

Location

This begins on the upper tier just left of the giant right facing corner of S.O.S. and the corner crack system of The Lopper. Look for the bolts on the upper black face. One is obvious as the steep wall turns to slab up high. A single 60m will get you down.

Protection

Singles to #3, tricams (or doubles in the medium sized), some draws for the bolts, and slings to extend a few pieces. Maybe a brush to remove some lichen. There is a two bolt anchor at the top. Unfortunately the hangers are ringless, so the rappel ring is attached to cord. This may need updating with new sling/cord, cable or the hangers replaced for ringed ones.

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